May 7, 2012
Hair Care for the Chemically Relaxed
Natural vs. relaxed hair both share a common bond. This common bond is that they both require quality hair care on a daily basis. However, relaxed hair requires a hair care regimen that is double the extreme of what natural hair gets. The care that is provided to relaxed hair has to serve as a dual system to care for both the hair and the scalp to avoid damage on both sides. Hair care professionals must be fully skilled and trained in applying relaxers and allowing the right processing time to ensure the hair is not damaged during the process and the right shampoos, conditioners and oils must be used to replenish the moisture, health and shine.
Black hair care is the top leading concern among black women today. With the many styles there are to choose with many going natural, wear weaves and wigs, or wearing relaxers and perms, there seems to be a movement of a variety of hair care systems on the market that are designed for specific uses. As a long-time weare of relaxers, I am always in the market for good hair care. And since I’ve been back in the groove of coloring my hair, maintaining the strength, health, shine and control of my hair is all too important. If I had a separate cabinet for my hair care products alone, it would be full from top to bottom.
I had the chance to check out Hairfinity. The site talks in depth about the fundamentals of black hair and its care. Did you know that black hair is made up of five parts?
- Cuticle
- Hair Follicle
- Cortex
- Sebaceous Glands
- Melanin
And because black hair is prone to breakage its uniqueness calls for products that are designed help it maintain it’s moisture, porosity and elasticity.
Hairfinity offers vitamins that meet the needs for growing black hair. Although I’ve never tried them, just in reading the articles and the overall site, it seems they have extensive knowledge of black hair and hair as a whole.
Livestrong.com provides valuable information on developing proper and hair care for after having received a relaxer. One which I always knew is that relaxers break down the integrity of the hair structure causing it to be weaker. Anyone who has worn relaxers for a long time knows that. Professional hair stylists know that as well, which is why it is important for them to continue in their practice of doing their job of performing good hair care tips after relaxing hair.
When you wash your hair after a new relaxer, you don’t want to dive in and just starting drying your hair with a towel, rubbing your scalp to and from. Best thing to (which is what I do), I wrap a towel around my head like a turban and I let the towel soak up the water. I use a wide-toothed comb to comb it out and I don’t just jerk my hair while drying it, I take my time to avoid snatching any of my hair out of my head.
The best waiting time is seven (7) days. Some people I know with relaxed hair wait after 5 days from relaxing their to wash it. This is not the best thing to do, but everyone is different. I wait 7 days period, and 7 days in between washing my hair to avoid dandruff and oil/products build up.
Washing your hair I recommend Pantene Relaxed & Natural Pro-V Dry to Moisturized shampoo and conditioner. It’s light and doesn’t leave your hair heavy. If you want to use a reconstructor I recommend Aphogee 2-Step Protein Reconstructor which is still being listed as a good product, however, wait about a week or two after your relaxer to use it.
The site also gives tips on oil treating your hair once a week. Because my hair tend to get oily on its own, I’d have to do this treatment every two weeks to avoid the heavy build up. But it is a good practice to have with wearing relaxers.
If you’re new to getting a relaxer, you will want to visit the many sites on the do’s and don’ts to wearing a relaxer because the hair care methods are double the time to care for it from what you’re used to. It becomes second nature when wearing relaxers because you’ll become accustom to how they make your hair look and feel and how your hair styles seem silkier and more manageable.
There are different hair care systems for caring for relaxed hair. You just have to know which works best for you and make sure is a proper system that will not cause breakage and/or damage to your hair. Six to eight weeks is the normal time to wait in between relaxers for a touch up. To be on the safe side, waiting 8 weeks is acceptable. Get a clear cellophane. They tend to help your hair during extreme weather. Talk to your professional hair stylist about clear cellophane and the benefits they offer.
Is Biotin a Good Source for Successful Hair Growth?
The one question I’ve been hearing over the years is if Biotin is a good resource for successful hair growth. The answer to that question is yes. However, it is recommended that you read the labels because there are different doses with some being taken with plenty of water and some with food.
Biotin comes in dosages as little as 7 – 25 mcg for infants to children up to 13 years of age. For adolescents and adults 14-18, pregnant women and women who are breast feeding 30 – 35 mcg, however, there are higher doses such as 1000 mcg, to as high as 10,000 mcg, which is the maximum dose.
Experts have indicated that the body only needs a very small amount of Biotin at 30 microgram (mcg). High dosages should be taken under the supervision of a healthcare advisor or physician. No sideffects have been associated with taking large amounts of Biotin in doses of 10000 mcg or 10 mg (miligrams), and has been linked to improving brittle finger and toe nails. Used in animals and in humans, there have been no significant sideffects.
There is also evidence that it may be beneficial in descreasing the symptoms of nerve problems. For thinning hair, brittle hair, it has been known to improve on it’s strength and shine. However, it is recommended to take it daily on a regular basis in order to continue the achievement of hair growth. Include a daily balance diet that includes protein and vitamins, drink plenty of water.
Biotin, also referred to as Vitamin H, is a water saluable Vitamin B. If you’re considering a Biotin regimen research the various doses. If you start at 1000 mcg and you discover it is two high, go to a lower strength. If you start at 3000 mcg and it’s too high, go to 1000 mcg. I take 10000 mcg once a day and usually at night, and with a meal and plenty of water. I have not experienced any issues and there is the difference in my hair. I give my daughter 1000 mcg (she’s 17) along with a multi-vitamin and with a meal usually with her breakfast. I’ve seen the difference in her hair and her nails are starting to grow.
Adding Biotin to your vitamin regimen can be beneficial especially if you suffer from brittle nails, thinning and/or hair breakage. Check with your pharmacist or with your primary physician and they’ll probably tell you that you cannot over dose on taking Biotin.
Read Yahoo! Answers for the best answer I’ve read on taking Biotin. It provides valuable links to resources that may add to this post. Also, check out the National Library of Medicine, which provides valuable information on Biotin.
Clairol Textures & Tones: For the Women of Color
Relaxing or perming your hair doesn’t have to be restricted to semi-permanent hair colors contrary to popular beliefs. Hair coloring has changed a great deal over the years, and as I’m discovering, more are catering to black women’s hair which is a huge plus in the hair industry.
Many beauty supply owners and hair dressers I’ve talked to over the past few years have all downplayed the idea of coloring your hair permanently if you currently wear a relaxer or perm. And I’m a veteran of relaxed hair. Many advise against it, at the same time are either not aware of it or choose not to do it, there are ammonia-free hair colors that are designed for and cater to women of color even if they have a relaxer or perm.
Clairol is one such manufacturer that has developed a product designed for just this purpose, and (as far as I am concerned) is the best in business of hair coloring products; simply because they go above and beyond the call of duty catering their products to suit all women of ethnic groups, specifically women of color.
Their “Textures & Tones” works with your hair if you have a relaxer or perm. You process for 20 minutes with a relaxer or perm and the results are fabulous. For best results, I recommend using Pantene’s Relaxed & Natural Pro-V, Dry to Moisturized for Women of Color at CVS, $4.99. You can get the shampoo and conditioner both for $6.97 ($3.49 each) using your CVS card (hurry while the sale is going on). The hair color is $6.99.
My color of choice is the 6G-Honey Blonde, for a bold and daring look. Change is good every now and then. I have used Clairol’s products for years and have discovered that they are not harsh on my hair. My hair was left feeling soft and looked beautiful (picture to follow). Of course, I cater that also to the Biotin tablets I take every day.
What’s in it? The best description I have found to best identify what’s in it comes from CVS-Pharmacy’s web site.
Textures & Tones Honey Blonde 6G: Water, Ethoxydiglycol, Ethanolamine, Oleth-10, Laureth-23, Oleic Acid, Behentrimonium Chloride, Decyl Glucoside, Fragrance, Dihydroxypropyl PEG-5 Linoleammonium Chloride, Cocamide MEA, Amodimethicone, Panthenol, Wheat Amino Acids, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, Bertholletia Excelsa Seed Oil, Glycerin, Cetrimonium Chloride, Trideceth-12, Erythorbic Acid, EDTA, Sodium Sulfite, 2-Methylresorcinol, P-Aminophenol, 4-Amino-2-Hydroxytoluene. Textures & Tones Color Developer: Water, Hydrogen Peroxide, Acrylates Copolymer, Steareth-21, Oleth-2, Oleth-5, PEG-50 Tallow Amide, Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Simethicone, Oleyl Alcohol, Etidronic Acid, Disodium EDTA. Textures & Tones Conditioner: Water, Stearyl Alcohol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Glutamic Acid, Dimethicone, Benzyl Alcohol, Fragrance, Panthenyl Ethyl Ether, EDTA, Panthenol, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone. Textures & Tones Booster: Potassium Persulfate, Sodium Silicate, Ammonium Persulfate, Silica, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Disodium EDTA.
As with all hair coloring products the warning still applies indicating that they ”may cause allergic reactions, which in rare instances can be serious. Do not color if you have had a previous reaction or if scalp is irritated or injured. To help minimize your risk perform the skin allergy test 48 hours before coloring. Follow enclosed instructions. This product contains ingredients which may cause skin irritation on certain individuals and a preliminary test according to accompanying directions should first be made.”
There are plenty to choose from. Whether you are covering your gray hair, going for a new look, or want to try something different — if you have relaxer or perm, this is definitely the product to try. Be sure to read ALL of the instructions before coloring your hair. It comes with a color booster which should be added in when you add the activator.
For beautiful color, I recommend Clairol Textures & Tones.
October 28, 2011
Back in the Beauty Salon
After nearly a year of not having been to the beauty salon, since the scissors episode, I decided, with much hesitation, to return to the beauty salon, first spending much time locating a stylist who could do mine and my daughter’s hair without spending a fortune, not having our hair chopped off, and having quality work done with a skilled and professional stylist. This really wasn’t about me. My daughter’s school just recently had their homecoming game and I already said that had she decided to go I’d pay for her hair to be done rather than do it myself.
I am true to my relaxer only because I want my hair looking healthy and full of life and I like the staying power having a well maintained relaxer has. I decided to return to my roots…go back to one beauty salon I knew could do the job I set out for. And a price that spoke to my pocket book. Denise Hair Salon was a place I enjoyed going, but that was when Samage was working there. Denise has sense moved the salon over on Slauson. She is now located at Ligons Beauty & Barber Salon at 3726 West Slauson Avenue, Los Angeles, CA, 323 295-5492. Denise is a lively person, lots of laughs there, and it’s a comfortable environment. $60 for my relaxer retouch and she gets you in and out. Even my daughter wants to go back, so you know she’s good. My hair is very smooth lots of body and not weighted down with tons of hair spray. She gave me a nice trim and my hair is looking hot and has give me sex appeal.
So ladies, need your crop dusted? Head on down and see Denise at Ligons Beauty & Barber Salon. Give her a call, tell her what you want and be treated like a real client. And fellas, looking for someone to get your hair cut, trimmed, lined up, see Jack. The price is right.
September 2, 2011
Good Wet Setting Hair Instructions
If you have a question about a good way to wet set your hair, I found a good web site that offers good instructions. The
Roller Setting Hair – Natural Black Hair 84
Provides good instructions for how to wet set your hair. Be sure to have a good set of rollers, setting gel or lotion and water bottle to perform this step.
June 16, 2011
Flat Ironing Tools for At-Home Styling
Are you looking to flat iron and style your hair at home?
Here are some some tools you will need for your at-home styling needs:
- A good flat iron. Some recommend a thermal or ceramic flat iron
- Shampoo and conditioning for moisturizing and protein
- A spray for heat protection. It is recommended a thermal spray.
- Flat ironing serum
- Clips to use for sectioning your hair
You can choose the style and size of your flat iron by visiting a beauty supply or anywhere that specializes in hair care to ensure you get the right type and size flat iron. This is a one-time investment and should be what you will be comfortable using for time to come.
For temperature setting it would depend on the thickness and fragility of your hair. In some cases 340 degrees F is recommended but you may have to go higher or lesser, again, depending on the thickness of your hair.
Always use a heat protector for your hair to avoid unwanted frizzies, and use a serum to smooth down any flyaways or stragly hairs.
eHow.com Style is a knowledgable website that provides good information on how to properly flat iron black hair. They recommend Chi or Sedu Ceramic Flat Iron as you need a great deal of heat to straighten African American hair. Read more at How to Flat Iron African American Hair | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_2199751_flat-iron-african-american-hair.html#ixzz1PTvYTjnf.
Do-it-Yourself Relaxer Touch Up
I was getting ready to make the journey to calling around the city of Los Angeles to find an experienced hair stylist that wasn’t going to cost me a fortune for a relaxer touch up, deep conditioning (because I strongly believe in them), a trim and flat iron. I’m lucky if I can find one who will charge me $65-$75 and include the trim.
So my color is a semi-permanent color, which means it’s safe to use with a relaxer providing you follow all of the rules to coloring your hair with a relaxer. Generally I wait seven days and one shampoo after my relaxer touch up before I touch up my color. Unless I go to the salon, then it’s a one-day shot.
In this case, and because I’ve gotten quite good at doing my own hair (by trial and error and the process of elimination of what I was doing wrong), I make it a point to follow all of the do-it-yourself rules to doing hair at home.
Post relaxer touch up. This is the day after I spent a couple of hours doing my hair. Relaxing the roots, rinsing out the chemicals, washing it a few times, conditioning it using a combination of olive oil and hair strengthening formula of Dove Conditioner – letting it sit for fifteen minutes (I don’t have a table top portable hair dryer yet), rinsing out the conditioning, taking my time to dry it rather than rushing through it, flat ironing it using the IC Serum, finishing up with a light mist of Pantene’s Naturally Relaxed hair oil spray and Finisheen (for me they seem to work well together).
Compared to where my hair started out two years ago, to where it is today, it is a little more than half the length it was then. It looks the way it does now due to regular up keep. It’s like my hair has a mind of its own, knowing when a week (seven days) has passed because it tends to start doing its own thing.
Being pre-menapausal, and sweating when I work out, I have to keep my hair up otherwise it’s out of control. What works for me in terms of shampooing is the Dove Intensive Repair. For conditioning, I like to use a combination of the Dove Intensive Repair conditioner with the Olive Oil.
The Olive Cholesterol, in my opinion adds a boost because afterwards, my hair feels alive. I use it with my Dove conditioner every time I wash my hair.
What do I use for my relaxer? For years I have always liked Elasta QP No Base Creme Relaxers.
It is ideal if you have color treated hair, semi-permanent hair (like me), and if you want to achieve straight hair styles. It is designed to be a gentle, extra conditioning formula, which I have always liked, but you have to use the right one suitable for your hair. I use mild.
You can find it at the majority of beauty supplies all over Los Angeles and doesn’t cost much.
There really isn’t much to touching up your own relaxer at home. Regular maintainance is important to avoid breakage and dry scalp and dandruff.
I read that it is recommended to wash your hair once every week with a relaxer. Truthfully, too, it’s all about just making sure you follow all the rules to good up keep of having a relaxer when you do it yourself:
- Don’t overlap on to previously relaxed hair.
- Don’t get relaxer cream on your scalp.
- Always use protective base like Witch Hazel or vaseline around the hairline, forehead back of your neck and your ear tips even if you have a no base creme relaxer.
- Always part your hair into four sections. If you use the brush method, follow the directions carefully and correctly
- Work within the time constraints and follow directions carefully.
- Only if necessary do a strand test.
- Be sure to always rinse the chemical from your hair thoroughly, until the shampoo turns white.
- Wash at least three times before conditioning
- Let conditioner sit on your hair 5-15 minutes (really up to you, I let it sit 10-15 minutes).
- Use a good, but light oil for your hair to keep it looking shiny, smooth and healthy, and to prevent dry scalp and breakage.
- If you trim your hair you only need to trim 1/4 to 1/2 inch, no more than that unless you’re giving yourself a hair cut. If your hair is badly damaged, seek a professional stylist to consider having your hair cut into a style to put it back on the road to healthy growing.
- Invest in a hood dryer, hair setting rollers and a pretty good flat iron and the right products for your hair for better results.
You can wash your hair as soon as the following week after getting it done, and if you do it yourself, and you want to color your hair, you can do so up to seven days and one shampoo after you relaxed your hair.
My advice to anyone contemplating doing their own relaxer for the first time, and I can’t emphasize this enough, read, read, read, and read as much information as you can. Get expert opinions if you can, talk to beauty experts at beauty supplies (many of them know their stuff), visit hair forums, and sign up to as many hair sites as you can because you can find and receive loads of information there — there are lots of stylists on these sites who don’t mind sharing their information and experience.
The best site to go to, and I highly recommend it, is Hairlista, Inc. where you can get tips, advice, suggestions to good products and much more. There is a wealth of knowledge on that site, you can’t go wrong.
Comentary: Promoting Healthy Hair — Let’s Keep it Real about Relaxer Touch Ups
I can remember back in the day when you could get a relaxer touch up and the cost of the trim is included. There were excellent stylist who were more concerned with the health and growth of your hair than they were fattening their pockets off your monthly visits. Yes, back then you could afford to pay for quality service and in return have beautiful hair that was well worth the money spent.
Nowadays you have to pay extra for this and that and hope in the end you like the overall outcome of your hair. This is where hair consumers are today, left to ponder the reality of exactly what they are paying for and if whether or not it’s worth putting it in their budget.
If I’m going to have to end up paying over $200 for my daughter and I to get our hair done, I’m sorry, but I can read and I am not against going to school. I can go to school learn the trade and to our hair ourselves and end up saving on salon costs all the way around. I’m just saying!
There are enough beauty supplies to go around and there are tons of online market that cater to black hair where you can read reviews on specific products to learn the ins and outs of what’s good and what’s not.
Today the hair industry is one that did not suffer all that greatly in the downturn of the economy. Prices are way high, the cost of a trim comes as a separate service if you’re getting a relaxer touch up, and many of the stylists come with horrible attitudes which in itself is enough to turn off any customer and keep them from wanting to come back.
The quest to achieve healthy hair is a continuing one because the competition is so great. She may have a bad attitude, but she is excellent what she does or he may have top notch skills but is scissor happy, or she’s fun to go to but doesn’t seem to know the difference between a deep conditioning and a regular wash and condition, or he is never on time, but does really great work. There is no getting away from it, and to be quite honest, unless you spend the time and money taking cosmetology courses to do your own hair, you’re going to experience a little inconvenience at every turn.
So, let’s talk about why many stylist are not including trims as a separate service especially when you’re getting a relaxer touch up (or retouch). The hair industry is a booming business, one you can’t shake your finger at. Many women are willing to make an exception and spend the extra $20-$25 if they are fortunate to have found an honest, well trained and experienced stylist. They are far few and between. But when you are on a budget and have to watch every single dime you spend, you may not have that luxury of just throwing down the extra cash, regardless of how experienced he or she may be. I’ve known some to have their hair done and go else where to pay much less for a trim. Of course, it’s making two trips, but if it means saving $8-$13 or more just on a trim, why not?
The more I research the Promoting Healthy Hair movement, the more information I uncover and to tell you the truth it’s a bit alarming. While the cost of getting your hair done has sky rocketed over the years, so has the number of inexperienced stylists and cocky stylists who know they are good these schools and programs are turning out. They are looking at the big dollar signs, telling you any and everything just to keep you coming back and if you don’t know any better, you feel inclined to listen to them and keep going back and they are fattening their pockets while they are simply doing their thing. And the more money they make on you doing what you are not experienced to do on your own, you are keeping them in business.
So what is really healthy hair? In best estimation, and from what I’ve read, it basically stems from regular maintainance. You know, the whole wash and conditioning, serums for flat ironing, etc., etc. As a veteran of relaxers, too, it’s all about what you methods you use to maintain your hair to keep it from breaking off. And believe it or not, you really don’t have to get trims as regularly as the stylist may tell you because there is just no proof in it actually helping your hair to grow any faster. I’m not saying don’t get trims, but let’s be realistic. For example, I can get away with trimming my hair every other month not ever six weeks I get my relaxer touched up. That just doesn’t make any sense to me and it shouldn’t to you. Unless your ends are just that screwed up and/or your hair is just that damaged, then you should take steps to repairing the damage by getting a nice hair cut like I did in 2002 when I let my stylist at the time chop my hair off just to wake it up, or so to speak. And the cut did wonders. My hair started on this quick path to recovery. Regular up keep made all the difference.
Keep this in mind the next time you are scouting for new stylists, or the next time you schedule to visit your hair stylist; in my opinion, over the years stylists tend to spend too much time keeping you in the dark from knowing what they did to get your as smooth as they got it, to look as healthy as it looks, what they used, and what their techniques are only because they want to keep you coming back. They don’t want you to know what they don’t know and what you shouldn’t know about their techniques. It’s all about keeping you in their chair month after month.
It’s a money making market that’s gotten many of us kept at their mercy. But if you take your hair back into your own hands, take charge of doing your hair yourself simply be reading, reading and reading, taking courses if you have to, you can create healthy hair on your own and in your own home and pay much less than what you normally spend on average.
Something to think about.
March 28, 2011
How to Trim African American Hair By Andrea Hermitt, eHow User
African American women tend to avoid getting their hair trimmed because hair stylists tend to be “scissor happy” and cut off too much. Seeing that our hair seems to take forever to grow, this is the last thing that we want. Still, if you do not trim African American hair, the ends will split and it will cease to get any longer. In fact, it might get shorter. Here are my tips for trimming African American hair.
- Difficulty:
- Moderate
Instructions:
Things you’ll need:
- Scissors
- Comb
- Purchase a quality pair of hair cutting scissors. kitchen sheers or scissors used to cut other items will be dull and cause you to cut off too much hair and get an uneven cut.
- Condition and straighten your hair before trimming it by using either a fresh straightening perm, or by flat-ironing it. This will make damaged ends more obvious. It will also reveal whether you need your hair trimmed at all.
- Examine your hair and determine how much you will need to cut. In most cases 1/4 to 1/2 inch is enough to cut to remove the damaged ends. If the hair has very short sections, or more than the ends are damaged, you may want to see a professional to have your hair cut into a style that will remove the damaged hair or hide the short sections.
- Part the hair into thin sections, running the hair through your middle and ring finger as shown in the picture (no picture available) and clip the ends.
- You can cut the ends straight across if you like your ends perfectly even. If you want a more contemporary jagged look you can take small snips at an angle.
Read more: How to Trim African American Hair | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_2199774_trim-african-american-hair.html#ixzz1HuvsCbfB
Top Ten Flat Irons
Folica’s list of our 10 best flat irons based on thousands of
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